Designed by Nicolas Ghesquière, the collection invented a cosmopolitan character that was driven by its urban context.

Nicolas Ghesquière, creative director of Louis Vuitton, presented his latest Fall/Winter 2023 collection, revealing a modern version of French style, sophisticated but carefree. Held at the Musée d’Orsay in Paris, the show was an immersive sensory experience designed by renowned French artist Philippe Parreno and production designer James Chinlund. 

The staging consisted of placing spotlights in the right places along an all-black catwalk in the centre of the hall, inspired by the streets of Paris, with the sound of sirens, car horns, rain and barking dogs, a sound illusion created by designer Nicolas Becker. 

The runway was lined with black geometric patterns that perfectly matched the theme of the collection as the models walked down the runway, changing looks and leaving guests in awe.

“The idea was to create a reflection of the current state of modern Paris and France and create this kind of live document of the street,” Nicolas explained in a video narration on the brand’s Instagram teaser leading up to the show. “We talked about capturing these ghosts, this vibe of this moment in Paris.” 

Indeed, creating visual interest with structure was the goal of this collection, with unexpected contours, lines and configurations employed on traditional fall staples.

“What is the French style? The question itself is an enigma, igniting an endless fascination. An irresolute fashion that resides on an oxymoronic base of audacious tradition. An evolving fashion, like the palimpsest of multiple currents coming from everywhere, in which the conventions of haute couture embrace an astonishing mix of cultures to become what is known as the French exception. This style of ineffable magnetism continues to intrigue the world; that is paradoxical: sophistication with the air of a dilettante. French charm is a trompe l’oeil. The French touch never fails to captivate”. – by Louis Vuitton. 

Ghesquière reinterpreted fall basics by playing with proportions, textures and colours to express his vision of modern French fashion, focusing his conceptual homage on a more bohemian and eccentric variety, updated with modern twists and futuristic turns. Oversized pleated blazers belted over textured shirt dresses, exaggerated geometric cut-outs on dresses and coats, long woven scarves with unique brooches and embellished knee-length leather shorts filled the runway. Unique accessories and motifs were reinvented with subtle French shades of red, white and blue.

Classic tube midi dresses featured tubular sleeves, triangular and circular bib-like details, and exaggerated sweetheart cut-outs. Touching the same futuristic note were A-line dresses, fitted and flared with sharp pyramid-shaped skirts. Outerwear was reinvented with lapel-less blazers and oversized sherpa bombers with blocked sleeves, shoulders, and leather pockets. The cool biker jackets reflected the same geometric pattern used for the runway backdrop, keeping with the theme of modern art and Parisian Street style. The hodgepodge style combined the garments with slim belts, opera gloves, thin scarves, shawls and more.

Each look had a collage of materials: textured furs, shag carpet brocades, cashmere, sheepskin, latex, sequins, and lace.

Louis Vuitton’s Fall Winter 2023 runway show was as dazzling on the runway as it was on the front rows. Global stars such as Alicia Vikander, Ana de Armas, Deepika Padukone, Eileen Gu, Bae Doona, Emma Stone, Gemma Chan, Jaden Smith, Sarah Paulson, Sophie Turner and Zendaya were in attendance. Not forgetting, the presence of his latest Louis Vuitton male creative director, Pharrell Williams.

Defying the temperatures and true to her simple but always elegant style, Alicia Vikander wore a patterned top and crisp white skirt to the fashion house’s presentation. She completed her look with a cream-coloured crossbody bad and riding boots.

Take a closer look at Louis Vuitton’s Fall-Winter 2023 collection below.