FASHION

Black Lipstick Returns—and This Time, It Owns the Runway

At Schiaparelli’s latest couture show, the gothic lip made a bold comeback—transforming a once-niche beauty statement into a celebration of individuality.

At this season’s Schiaparelli couture show in Paris, it wasn’t just the sculpted gowns or surrealist silhouettes that had the fashion world buzzing. The biggest surprise came in the form of makeup: nearly every model stepped onto the runway wearing a glossy, jet-black lip. It was bold, dramatic, and unlike anything the house had showcased before.

While Schiaparelli has often leaned toward minimal or sculptural beauty looks—occasional red lips, clean faces, or avant-garde accents like chandelier crystals—this collection marked a striking shift. Black lipstick took the lead, creating a stark contrast with the couture designs and adding a moody, romantic depth to each look. Just four models wore red; the rest wore black—and wore it unapologetically.

The look was created by Dame Pat McGrath, whose work has shaped some of fashion’s most iconic beauty moments. Her team used the new PermaGel Eye Pencil in Xtreme Black to build the lips, giving them a lacquered finish that gleamed under the runway lights.

Years later, in New York City, that same sense of expression returned—this time with purpose. Products like Kylie Jenner’s “Dead of Knight” lip kit and KVD Beauty’s Everlasting Hyperlight Liquid Lipstick became staples in her beauty routine. With every swipe of black, she reclaimed part of her identity: bold, queer, and proud. It’s a feeling she returns to every time she applies it—a visual reminder of self-ownership.

Seeing black lipstick take over the runway at one of fashion’s most respected houses felt like a full-circle moment. In a world that often praises uniqueness but quietly enforces sameness, this was a rare instance where an outsider’s symbol was welcomed in.

Schiaparelli didn’t just bring black lipstick back—it gave it legitimacy.

This wasn’t about chasing trends or tapping into nostalgia. It was about visibility. About reminding people—especially those who once felt like misfits—that their style, their voice, and their past all deserve space in the spotlight.

The black lip is back. But this time, it isn’t fringe. It’s fashion. And more than that—it’s freedom.