From statement faux fur to the revival of the pencil skirt, here’s what’s shaping the new season.

After a month of runway spectacles across New York, London, Milan and Paris, one message rang clear: autumn/winter 2025 is all about contrasts. Designers balanced pared-back minimalism with unapologetic maximalism, moving seamlessly between sharp tailoring, earthy palettes and timeless silhouettes on one hand, and bold textures, lace in unexpected hues, body-revealing cuts and high-impact glamour on the other.

This season is about opposites working in harmony: cosy faux furs against delicate lace, grounded neutrals alongside daring sheerness, and structured pencil skirts contrasting with boundary-pushing cuts. Whether your style gravitates toward refined elegance or experimental boldness, there’s a look to make your own.

From the return of brown as the ultimate neutral to the reimagined pencil skirt, here are the five trends that will dominate AW25:

1. Fur, Everywhere

Faux fur was the undeniable star of the season. Designers elevated it from winter staple to full fashion statement, showing it in ankle-grazing coats, cropped jackets, voluminous stoles and even accessories.

At Prada, jewel-toned trims added opulence, while Balenciaga exaggerated proportions with oversized silhouettes. Stella McCartney and Gabriela Hearst spotlighted sustainable options, proving glamour and responsibility can go hand in hand. This year, fur isn’t just outerwear – it’s a whole look.

2. Lace With Edge

Once synonymous with fragility, lace was reinvented with striking colours and daring cuts. Saint Laurent led the way, sending Bella Hadid down the runway in a cobalt blue lace co-ord with power shoulders. Gucci leaned into neon lace bodysuits paired with skirts, and Fendi kept it sensual with sheer lace blouses.

Carolina Herrera and Rabanne embraced vivid lace co-ords, while Chloé delivered ethereal boho lace gowns. Whether vibrant, sheer or structural, lace stepped firmly into the spotlight as a main event, not just a finishing touch.

3. Shades of Brown

Brown cemented its place as the season’s defining neutral. From deep chocolate to soft caramel, the colour saturated AW25 runways across outerwear, tailoring and eveningwear.

Bottega Veneta’s brown leather trenches set the tone, while Miu Miu played with caramel-toned knitwear and minis. Valentino and Dior carried brown into eveningwear, proving it’s a chic alternative to black. If you add one versatile hue to your wardrobe this season, make it brown.

4. The Pencil Skirt Comeback

Polished and feminine, the pencil skirt re-emerged as a modern essential. Designers gave this classic piece fresh twists, pairing it with unexpected textures and silhouettes.

Calvin Klein doubled down on minimalism with sleek pinstripe skirt suits, while Sarah Burton at Givenchy introduced hourglass tailoring in muted tones. Gucci and Fendi lightened the look with pastel co-ords, while others styled pencil skirts with chunky knits, corset tops or strapless blouses. The result? A wardrobe hero that moves seamlessly from office hours to evenings out.

5. The Art of Revealing

Skin-baring styles made a powerful return, but with refinement that makes them more wearable. Sheer fabrics and clever layering turned “naked dressing” into something versatile and even office-friendly.

At Nina Ricci, MM6 and Carolina Herrera, gauzy blouses were paired with tailoring, while Chloé and Valentino delivered ethereal dresses revealing lingerie beneath. Diesel and DSquared2 revived the daring bumster waistline, and Phoebe Philo’s backless skirts became instant talking points. This season, confidence is the most important accessory.