Demna’s first runway presentation for the Italian house marks a striking creative shift.

At this season’s Milan Fashion Week, all eyes were on Gucci as the iconic Italian label unveiled its Fall/Winter 2026/2027 collection. The show quickly became one of the most anticipated moments of the week, largely because it marked the runway debut of the brand’s new creative director, Demna, who stepped into the role last year.

For the luxury house—established in 1921 by Guccio Gucci—this presentation signaled far more than the arrival of a new seasonal lineup. It forms part of a broader effort to refresh the brand’s image and momentum, led by parent company Kering as it seeks to revitalize its most prominent fashion label.

Demna introduced his debut lineup under the title “Gucci Primavera,” presenting a fresh creative universe for the house. The set design immediately set the mood: models walked through a grand space framed by sweeping marble steps topped with classical statues. The staging subtly echoed the atmosphere of the Uffizi Gallery, paying homage to Florence—the city where Gucci first began.

The show featured 83 looks spanning both womenswear and menswear, reflecting Demna’s ambition to reach a broad audience while reinterpreting the brand’s visual identity.

The Georgian-born designer—who previously spent ten years shaping the aesthetic of Balenciaga—outlined a softer and more emotional vision for Gucci moving forward.

“In general I intend for Gucci to become lighter, softer, more refined, more elaborate, more emotional—even senseless sometimes,” Demna wrote in a statement shared with the press and on social media. “I don’t want it to be intellectual.”

His comments hint at a shift away from the more conceptual tone often associated with his past work. Instead, this collection leaned into glamour, sensuality, and pieces that feel relevant to everyday wardrobes.

“My vision of Gucci is about the coexistence of heritage and fashion,” Demna explained. “Here they are not opposites—they are lovers.”

The Fall/Winter lineup blended contemporary silhouettes with subtle references to the brand’s heritage. On the women’s side, the runway featured low-rise leggings, seamless mini dresses, and sharp miniskirts paired with stockings emblazoned with the double-G monogram. Faux-fur coats and bomber jackets added bold texture, while stiletto heels heightened the collection’s sleek, glamorous tone.

Eveningwear also took center stage. Several shimmering gowns and fluid silhouettes captured the spotlight, delivering the kind of red-carpet glamour long associated with the Gucci name.

Menswear leaned toward body-conscious shapes and street-influenced styling. Models appeared in tight tops that accentuated athletic physiques, styled with biker jackets and oversized leather footwear in striking red and white tones. Some completed their looks with Gucci’s popular cross-body belt bags, an accessory that has become a signature piece within the brand’s contemporary lineup.

The show concluded with a memorable moment when supermodel Kate Moss closed the runway wearing a glittering black evening gown with a dramatic open back. The design subtly revealed a thong featuring the brand’s golden double-G emblem, a playful and provocative detail that immediately sparked conversation among fashion insiders.

Observers were quick to note echoes of the glamorous aesthetic that defined Gucci during the era of Tom Ford, who famously revitalized the house in the 1990s.

According to Gaya Guiragossian, the influence of that decade was evident throughout the show.

“Demna’s debut at Gucci is the most scrutinized show of this season,” she said. “His collection referenced the glamorous Tom Ford years—with smoky eye makeup, silk shirts, and glossy fabrics reminiscent of the 1990s.”

For longtime followers of the brand, these references suggest a deliberate attempt to reconnect with a moment when Gucci dominated the global fashion conversation.

The timing of this creative reset is significant. Gucci has faced declining sales in recent years, with revenue reportedly falling sharply in 2025.

Across the wider luxury market, demand has cooled following the post-pandemic surge in spending. According to estimates from consulting firm Bain & Company, the industry has lost roughly 50 million customers as shoppers grow more cautious and increasingly critical of rising prices and diminishing product excitement.

For Kering, the pressure to revive its flagship brand is considerable.

Last year the group appointed Luca de Meo to spearhead a turnaround strategy designed to restore Gucci’s momentum. Speaking to journalists after the runway show, De Meo highlighted the importance of speed and fresh energy in the brand’s transformation.

“It was important to give a sign of speed and dynamism,” he said, adding that he believes Gucci is now moving “in the right direction.”

Demna’s appointment was widely viewed as a bold and somewhat risky decision. Known for his provocative and boundary-pushing approach to design, the creative director has built a reputation for generating conversation within the fashion world.

During his years at Balenciaga, he introduced viral products such as the Triple S sneaker, helping reshape the relationship between luxury fashion and streetwear. The strategy resonated strongly with younger consumers and brought notable commercial success to the brand.

However, his career has also faced challenges. In 2022, a Balenciaga advertising campaign sparked intense criticism after being accused of inappropriate imagery involving children, leading to public apologies from both the company and the designer.

Despite those controversies, many industry analysts believe Demna’s ability to capture cultural attention is exactly why Kering selected him to lead Gucci’s next phase.

Select pieces from the Fall/Winter 2026/2027 collection are expected to arrive in certain boutiques and online stores soon, with a wider retail launch planned for July 2026. The accelerated rollout reflects the brand’s effort to maintain momentum and keep consumers engaged.

For now, the fashion world will continue watching closely. Demna’s debut marks the beginning of a new creative direction—one that seeks to balance Gucci’s storied heritage with a bold contemporary voice.

Whether that vision will restore the brand’s global appeal remains to be seen. But after one of the most talked-about shows of the season, it’s clear that Gucci has officially entered a new chapter.