FASHION

House of Gucci’s Costumes Help to Tell its Story

There is no doubt that House of Gucci is already up there with some of the most fashionable films in cinema history.

House of Gucci is Ridley Scott’s latest film, which shows off the tensions that arise among members of the family behind the storied luxury brand as they fight each other for control of its ultimate legacy in a tale that includes plenty of scandal, betrayal and even murder.

The film is based on the true story of the Gucci family. At the centre of the film are Maurizio Gucci (Adam Driver) and Patrizia Reggiani (Lady Gaga).

Despite all drama inside the film, it is one of fashion’s most prominent dynasties. The film is full of extravagant and extraordinary looks, from impeccably tailored suits and embellished gowns to big jewels and even bigger hair. All of these aspects help to re-tell the story as it was in the past. Designer Janty Yates is in charge of the film’s costume. She created more than 500 costumes for the film as she set out to create a wardrobe fit for one of the wealthiest and stylish families in the fashion industry. She says, “It was spectacular,” “I’ve never had such an opportunity ever in my life.”

Not only did Janty Yates prepare to outfit the Guccis, but she also researched the real-life counterparts of characters like Patrizia and the history of the brand itself. As a result, all of these processes resulted in two looks (a pantsuit emblazoned with Gucci’s iconic double G logo and a silk blouse in the same print, paired with a leather skirt) being used in the film.

In the film, costuming plays a crucial role in showing the narrative arcs of the characters. For instance, Patrizia (Lady gaga) begins the film wearing feminine dresses and sweater sets and showing off a decidedly ladylike woman style in the early days of her courtship with Maurizio.

But then, Patrizia married into Milan’s elite social circles, which Yates tried to convey in a scene where Patrizia wears a figure-hugging dress and heels to work at her father’s truck company. Yates said, “She looks so sweet and innocent, but she does wear that va-va-voom green dress with high heels when she’s going to work and she knows the effect it has on the drivers of her father’s business. She’s not without guile.”

Once married into the Gucci family, Patrizia’s clothing becomes more opulent and ostentatious—a reflection of her new life of luxury. For that, the designer wore the character with over-the-top outfits complemented with lots of outrageous fine jewellery.

“Anyone who wants to dress like Patrizia would have to wear the jewels,” she said. “It was the jewels that really did seal it. You know, she’d have big earrings and lots of necklaces instead of a subtle, tasteful approach.”

Yates found that Patrizia also preferred to wear other brands like Yves Saint Laurent during her heyday as Lady Gucci. When Patrizia was Maurizio’s wife, Yates had to show a real-custom of that moment. For that, she relied on Dominic Young, who custom made costumes that resembled YSL dresses and Chanel suits of the time.

During the whole film, no costumes were repeated, resulting in a total of 65 costumes changes on Patrizia (Lady Gaga) and 40 suits on Maurizio (Adam Driver). “[Gaga] refused to repeat anything. Even earrings, so everything that we’d shoot that scene with in the morning would be put away and then we’d just start again with different jewelry, different dress, different everything,” Yates said. “And I actually did the same, more or less, with Adam, because they were that rich—they didn’t have to wear the same clothes.”