Among pyramids, pharaohs and a starry sky, Kim Jones presents his proposal for fall 2023. This was the most historic fashion show of the Maison among the pyramids of Giza (Cairo).

Last weekend in Giza, Egypt, Dior toured the vast expanse of the desert to present its highly anticipated Fall 2023 ‘Guided by the stars’ men’s collection. With the Great Pyramid of Giza as an iconic backdrop, the legendary fashion house presented its latest collection in typically grandiose fashion: 75 models with 75 looks being a significant number for the House of Dior this year as it marks 75 years since Christian Dior created the brand in 1947.

“My interest in ancient Egypt is about the stars and the sky. It’s that fascination with the ancient world and the parallels with what we see today; what we inherited from them and what we are still learning from the past,” Jones said in a press release. “It relates to Christian Dior in that sense and through his fascination with symbols and superstitions that recur throughout his life and work, one of which is the star. In both the collection and the show there is an idea of ‘guided by the stars’ and what that can imply in many ways. It’s about how the past shapes the future or an idea of the future of the past.”

With so much looking to the past, it’s always an impressive feat to see Jones catapult history forward. Sensibly, there were no overt references to ancient Egyptian culture or even traditional “Dior” nods to the solar system. Instead, it was retro-futurism and a fascination with technology and sci-fi themes. He worked with NASA on some of the prints, using images of telescopes to print galaxies on T-shirts, jackets and even leggings, signalling a possible return to the galaxy-print rash guard we all thought we’d given up on in 2013. Naturally, these were more refined than anything fashionable at the time and were paired with tailored wool pants, helmets under the arms and military-style biker boots.

Touching on its history while boldly looking to the future, it embraced technical outerwear and couture tailoring, military coats and pleated plaid skirts.

One of the most striking things about this men’s collection is the emphasis on contrasting color palettes. While the overall theme leaned toward neutrals, with tans, blacks and charcoal grays presiding, striking touches of color made striking statements. Bright canary yellows, deep creamy oranges and celestial blends of reds and blues leapt onto the runway like a sunset peaking over the horizon.

Dior chose to emphasize another contrast between the past and the present. The combination of technical features, such as militaristic steels and pieces evoking bulletproof vests with long, flowing silhouettes, made for an inspired interpretation of the contemporary masculine style. Meanwhile, the wool plaid half-skirts on display reintroduced aspects of Dior’s famous 1950s pleated skirt, the Bonne Fortune.

As the collection evolved, the colors intensified. Whites, bright yellows and creams morphed into Dior Gray and muted browns before descending into blacks. The references remained strong for Jones at the helm of menswear, effortlessly merging a current take on men’s collections with Christian Dior’s New Look.

Jones again delivered an interpretation of the house that works for many, where signature sensibilities meet technological developments.

Celebrities attended the Dior’s front-row, such as British supermodel Naomi Campbell, who said she was “happy because Egypt for me is part of Africa. And it’s a great honor that Dior and Kim Jones have chosen to be here.”

Other international stars included Formula One champion Lewis Hamilton, British actor Robert Pattinson, Scottish actor Thomas Doherty, South Korean rapper and Dior global ambassador Oh Se-hun, Spanish actor Aron Piper, Colombian singer Manuel Turizo, and American model Amber Valletta.